What it does
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that increases skin cell turnover and, over months, stimulates collagen. The evidence behind the retinoid family is stronger than for almost any other cosmetic ingredient, which is why dermatologists keep recommending it despite how annoying it is to start.
The catch is the adjustment period. Two to six weeks of dryness, flaking, and sometimes a temporary breakout is normal, not a reaction — but it is also the reason most people quit. Start at a low strength twice a week, apply to dry skin, buffer with moisturiser if needed, and increase only when your skin stops complaining.
It degrades in light and makes skin more sun-sensitive, so it belongs in the evening and it obliges you to wear sunscreen the next day. If you are not going to wear sunscreen, this is not the active to start with.
Pregnant or breastfeeding? Skip topical retinoids entirely and speak to a doctor. Bakuchiol is the usual suggested alternative.
In a routine
Layers well with
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
- Hyaluronic acid
- Squalane
Do not layer with
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Glycolic acid
- Salicylic acid
Same routine is fine for some pairs — same step is the problem. Split them morning and evening when in doubt.
