What it does
Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme central to melanin production, which makes it useful on post-inflammatory marks and uneven tone. It is a common component of brightening stacks alongside niacinamide and vitamin C.
It is also more sensitising than the gentler options and can cause contact dermatitis in a minority of users. Patch test, introduce it slowly, and do not stack it with acids in the same routine while you find out how your skin responds.
As with all pigment work, results take two to three months and are undone in a fortnight without sunscreen.
In a routine
Layers well with
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C
- Sunscreen
Do not layer with
- Glycolic acid
Same routine is fine for some pairs — same step is the problem. Split them morning and evening when in doubt.
